Bits and Pieces of Neat Bits of Baltimore's Past

UNION SQUARE
Union Square Map

It's hard to pick any ONE square to start with, and hard to pick a favorite, but if pressed, one can certainly see the merits in Union Square in Southwest Baltimore (SoWeBo). Bordered by Hollins, Stricker, Lombard, and Gilmor Streets, Union Square, perhaps more than any other square, offers the most authentic glimpse of the flavor of the squares in their early days.

With shady winding trails, and a functional fountain, Union Square, dating to at least 1850, packs a lot of interest into a single city block. It offers a charm that no modern park can ever hope to replicate, in particular thanks to the stately Italianate homes that front its North, East, and South sides. Today, the square still offers a pleasant respite to its community, as it has for over a century and a half.

With its stately entrance ways, one can make no mistake that they're entering a special place when taking in the joys of Union Square.	Near the Stricker Street side of the square lies this gazebo, designed by John Hoss. It plays host to several community events during the year.
The fountain, though functional, was not in operation on the day I snapped this photo.	The exterior of the fountain is adorned with cast replicas of H.L. Mencken's books, the author of which lived nearby.

LAFAYETTE SQUARE

Though of not quite the vintage of its Sowebo sibling, Lafayette Square, bordered by Lafayette, Arlington, Lanvale (st.), and Carrollton Avenues carries much of the same type of charm. It's neighboring residences vary in vintage from the 1890s to the 1920s, and sadly, some are presently in a decaying state as the area awaits and hopes for a coming renaissance.

Despite the challenges facing it, Lafayette Square itself remains a throwback to recall the days of its former glory. The park looks much as it did a century ago, with tall trees to ward off the opressive sun, and benches on which to relax. The atmosphere is helped, no doubt, by the impressive chuches that anchor several corners of the square.

After 100 years, Lafayette retains its original layout as seen in the map above. This view looks Northeast from Lanvale and Carrollton.

Just like Union, Lafayette is greeted by stately planters, and is centered by a fountain.

HARLEM PARK

Not so much as a square per se, but rather more of a city park that was designed to take up two city blocks instead of one, Harlem Park is bordered by Gilmor Street and Carey Street on the West and East, and Edmondson Avenue on the South. Originally, it was bounded by Harlem Avenue on its North, but construction of the Harlem Park Middle School in 1963 ended this arrangement.

Originally, the Harlem Park land was given to the city in 1868, by the estate of Thomas Edmondson. Eight years, later, the park was dedicated, and became a hit for its pond, as well as the many shade trees, which included Willows, Lindens, Sycamores, and a single White Mulberry. It was a well known place for the gents and ladies of the time to become acquainted.

The pond and fountain that originally stood centered in the Eastern half of Harlem Park as seen in the 1920's. The houses in the background were only recently torn down to create a new assisted living facility, though this area of the park had previously been regraded for more recreational activities.

Today, the park in its original format has been halved. The Eastern block has been graded to accomodate sports fields and basketball courts, while the Western block largely retains the more original qualities to promote leisure more than physical activity. As a result, the park offers a decent compromise for today's active youth looking for recreation, as well as those who seek a bit of solace from the Urban wilderness nearby.

Unlike the modernized Eastern half, the Western portion of Harlem Park carries traditional pathways, though they seem to differ from the original arrangement, and are shaded by younger trees. View looks Northeast from Gilmor and Edmondson.

The I.O.O.F. Monument still stands proudly in Harlem Park, and readily visible even when passing by on Gilmor Street.

FRANKLIN SQUARE
Franklin Square Park

Frankin Square is actually the oldest of the city's squares, dating to 1845. Bordered by Lexington, Carey, Fayette, and Calhoun Streets. the square is surrounded by several blocks of impressively styled homes that made up some of the most fashionable residences in the area. The square also gave its name to a nearby hospital that has since relocated to the Rosedale area of Baltimore County. Unfortunately however, today, when most locals see the term "Franklin Square," they think of the suburban locale, and are ignorant of the fact that the true Franklin Square lies in West Baltimore.

Today, Franklin Square retains the layout it originally had, as well as the small public comfort station in its center, though its fountain is gone. This view looks Southeast from Lexington and Calhoun.

PERKINS SQUARE

To call Perkins "Square" is a touch inappropriate, being as it was carved from a polygonical section of land that resembled a 90-45-45 triangle with a square chip out of it. Perkins was the innermost city square, on the land where Myrtle Avenue met George Street. It was established in 1872, and grew to include a greenhouse in 1887. The greenhouse, along with a fountain, and a springstone beneath a gazebo, were the park's primary attractions.

Perkins Square as it appeared early in the century. The gazebo lies in the foreground, while the background contains the greenhouse.

By 1920, the park had begun to get a seedy look to it, but it would not be until 1965 when severe redevelopment would greatly alter the landscape around it to include the infamous Murphy Homes housing project. Often a source of detraction among its residents and critics, this cold high rise lasted a scant 30 years before being imploded to make way for a more hospitable development called Heritage Crossing.

Despite the accelerated cycles of demolition and rebuilding in the area over the past 50 years, the Perkins Square has managed to survive, at least in part. The street configuration surrounding the new "Perkins Spring Community Park" has been radically altered to form an ellipse around the parkland. The greenhouse has long since vanished, but the trademark gazebo still stands proud, thanks to a loving restoration, in seeking once again to become a proud focal point for this new community.

The Perkins Spring Gazebo, after years of looking idle and neglected, has once again become the proud focal point on the leisure area once known as Perkins Square.

Once centered by a springhead, the gazebo later housed a simple water fountain, but today, simply offers shade to the area.

COLLINGTON SQUARE

Sadly, most of the squares in East Baltimore have not had the luck of holding on like those on the West Side, particularly when one considers the lost squares of City Springs, Jackson Square, and Canton Square. Collington Square is the most pleasant exception to this rule. Bounded by Hoffman Street, Patterson Park Avenue, Preston Street, and Chester Street, Collington shares its name with the street that would bisect it if only it could.

The square shares the double wide configuation of Harlem Park, and just like Harlem, has seen its original shape distorted by the addition of a namesake school bordering its Northern boundary. Just as with Harlem, some concession has been made to make the park more appealing to the young and active within the community, while in addition, retaining an impressive portion more suitable to simple leisure. It offers a dynamic view that offers a lovely glimpse of the Downtown skyline, though this has been somewhat obscured by the massive amount of development at the Johns Hopkins Hospital nearby.

Looking Southwest from the center of Collington Square, one can see that the sqaure has seen recent redevelopment, judging by the rather juvenile trees along the pathways. Ove may barely discern the Shot Tower in the enlargement.

Looking Southwest, one can see a few more mature trees. In this section, a portion of the square has been redone to include basketball courts.

JOHNSTON SQUARE

For those who like playing sports, Johnston Square is likely a joy. But for those who like history even more, Johnston Square is a tremendous disappointment. Bounded by Biddle, Valley, Chase, and Homewood Streets in Northeast Baltimore, Johnston retains nearly none of its original charms that it was known for.

Just over 50 years ago, the park was a source of great pride among leisure hunters in the area. Named after Robert Johnston, it was the beneficiary of a particularly hyped flagpole in August of 1942, the gift of one of Johnston's descendents. Accompanying the pole's dedication was a jubilant celebration and ceremony. Three years later, notes tell of the quick repair of the chain on this very pole.

In 1962, someone noted that the square was erroneously spelled "Johnson" in a number of city records (and as it is on the above map), and efforts were made to properly and uniformly identify it. A city program in the early 1970's would see Johnston's charachter and purpose change greatly. Only perimter trees would be retained, with the center being redeveloped into an athletic playground for the area. Little would be retained to offer simple leisure. The result is a square that looks much like any school playground, and little like the quaint square it was designed to be. And one can only wonder what became of the much ballyhooed flagpole, as it certainly does not survive on location today.

B-Ball is the primary order of the day at today's Johnston Square, in quite a contrast to its more leisurely days through much of the 20th Century.

MADISON SQUARE

Competing with Johnston for the saddest tale regarding its fate is lonely Madison Square. While Johnston at least sees a healthy amount of continued use, 1853 vintage Madison Square today lies very much forgotten. Bordered by Caroline Street, Eager Street, and Eden Street, and originally bordered by Chase Street on the north before the block above was largely converted to play space and apartments, Madison has been largely left to revert to nature, while no plans seem to be touted for use of the forlorn land.

Madison had remained, though largely overgrown, until 1997, when the city uprooted much of it, and dismantled its pathways, leaving a eyesore of dirt in the wake. Thankfully, this has been somewhat alleviated thanks to the reseeding of grass in the open space, but there is no doubt that today's Madison Square lacks the charm it once had, and carries only slightly more finesse than a vacant lot.

A few old trees offer the scant few memories of what was once Madison Square. Though still techincally such, the park carries little to remind of its former days.

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